A humble New York-made cheddar surprised international judges at one of the world's most prestigious cheese competitions, ranking in the top 10 among a crowded field of European winners.
At the 2025 World Cheese Awards in Bern, Switzerland, a cave-aged cheddar sold by Murray's Cheese in New York City called Stockinghall took fifth place, outranking dozens of long-revered European producers. It earned additional trophies for best American cheese and best cheddar.
"These awards reflect the relentless dedication of our affinage team in crafting distinctive new flavors in American cheese," Nick Tranchina, president of Murray's Cheese, said in a statement.
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Stockinghall is produced at Old Chatham Creamery in Groton, New York, by Jeremiah Timmins, head cheesemaker. He uses a recipe developed through a year of experimentation at Cornell University's Dairy Science facility.
Then, the wheels are shipped off to be aged and sold by Murray's.
Timmins told The Ithaca Voice that the recognition is motivation for him.
"I'm pretty much just going to keep focusing on what I'm doing," he told the outlet. "Really try and continue making the cheese, see if I can make it better, see if I can get that No. 1 cheese in the world."
Meanwhile, a Swiss cheese, Le Gruyère AOP Vorderfultigen Spezial, aged 18 months, was crowned world champion, topping a record-breaking 5,244 entries from 46 countries.
While Gruyère is often known in the U.S. for creamy fondues or a French onion soup topping, this more complex raw-milk version - made by Bergkäserei Vorderfultigen, a small Alpine dairy using strict traditional methods - was praised for its rich flavor, delicate crunchy crystals and deep savory aroma.
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The cheese's AOP status (short for Appellation d'Origine Protégée) is Europe's strict version of a geographic quality seal, similar to how only sparkling wine from France's Champagne region can be called Champagne.
It marked the sixth time a Le Gruyère AOP has won the top prize at the contest, organized by the U.K.-based Guild of Fine Food (GFF).
"The aroma has a real beefiness to it," Patrick McGuigan, one of the hosts, said of the winner, according to a news release from the GFF. "It's savory. It's deep. It's umami."
The world's largest cheese-only contest featured 265 judges, a full day of blind tasting and a Super Gold round for the top-scoring cheeses. From there, a super jury of 14 experts from five continents each chose one finalist to defend live on stage before the world champion was selected.
Super jury member Perry Wakeman, who nominated the winning Gruyère, said, "It's a big old cheese. There's a lot going on. The texture is beautiful. It's flinty as you break it apart. The crystalline in there are so delicate. I found myself going back and back again for it."
Wakeman added, "This kind of cheese, in a weird way, is what gets people into cheese. It is massive. It makes an impact."
It's like Gruyère "dialed up to 13," he raved.
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Cheesemaker Pius Hitz, managing director of Bergkäserei Vorderfultigen, accepted the trophy in person.
"It's a very great honor for me and for the daily work that goes into this, seven days a week, 365 days a year," Hitz said.
The runner-up was Crémeux des Aldudes aux Fleurs, a creamy French cheese covered in edible flowers.
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Third place went to Switzerland's Appenzeller Edel-Würzig, aged nine months.
While Swiss cheeses dominated the podium, judges said this year's top 14 showed an unusually diverse lineup, featuring cheeses from the U.S., Japan, Slovakia, the Netherlands and the U.K.
Stockinghall had one of the strongest American finishes in recent years.
The cheddar earned praise for its flaky texture, natural rind and complex, savory sharpness.
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The U.S. also earned best goat or ewe's milk cheese for Laura Chenel's Pear, Wine and Rosemary Fresh Goat Cheese Log.
In total, the U.S. received six super gold, 16 gold, 63 silver and 81 bronze awards.
Alongside the main judging was the Academy of Cheese's Young Cheesemonger of the Year competition; the top title went to Hanna Lee of Uplands Cheese in Wisconsin.
Lee said she felt "overwhelmed and honored," calling the win "a great credit to American cheesemongers."
Her victory also earned her a spot on the judging panel at the 2026 World Cheese Awards in Andalucia, Spain.
